Travel Blog

Glen Allison has embarked on a ten-year, nonstop vagabond odyssey to photograph extraordinary travel destinations.

Amritsar, India: Golden Temple Reflections

In Amritsar lies the golden jewel of the Sikh faith: Harmandir Shrine, which rises from the center of a lake at the Golden Temple. Every Sikh strives to make at least one pilgrimage here in their lifetimes for a ritual bath in the lake’s waters and to listen to the sublime shabad kirtan devotional music that is played throughout the day and into the night.

Devotees circumambulate the lake in a clockwise direction. When visiting the Golden Temple there are some Golden Rules: One’s feet must be washed before entering; no shoes can be worn on the white marble walkway and all heads must be covered; photography is permitted but no tripods are allowed.

Inconspicuously I shot a few images of a Sikh guard patrolling the area.

India, Punjab, Amritsar, Golden Temple, Harmandir shrine, Sikkh guardIndia, Punjab, Amritsar, Golden Temple, Harmandir shrine, Sikh guard

I like the silhouette effect but decided to try  a bit of fill flash since the guard was standing in the building’s shadow but I didn’t want the flat light that would emanate from an on-camera flash unit. I also didn’t want the guard to get wise to my efforts so my assistant and I moved to a covered walkway behind several columns where I rigged a Canon 580EX II flash with a Rosco 1/4 CTO warming gel so the strobe light would more closely match the color of the late afternoon sun.

I also attached the flash to a Pocket Wizard TT5 radio receiver and told my assistant to discreetly hold the unit off to one side for more three-dimensional fill light once we went back to the set. On camera I used another TT5 as a transmitter fitted with the AC3 Zone Controller so I could easily dial in the flash intensity. I set the camera’s ambient exposure at minus one-and-a-third stops. I decided not to use a soft light modifier on the flash because I didn’t want to attract undue attention. I instructed my assistant to hold the flash unit close to his body and in a fashion that wouldn’t look so obvious that he was pointing it at the guard.

Compare the fill flash image on the right above with the unlit version on the left. In this example I prefer the unlit version. Only a sliver of the guard’s face is seen but to properly expose the skin tone the yellow turban burns out slightly and the dark navy blue uniform absorbs so much light that it  almost looks black.

A couple of Sikh gentlemen sat on the marble walkway to ponder the golden reflection of the Harmandir. I had chosen late afternoon so the setting sun would brilliantly reflect from the gilded surface of the shrine and I walked back and forth to find the position that offered the most intense reflection. (Angle of incidence equals angle of reflectance.) Again the fill flash was a bare-head 580EXII with attached 1/4 CTO gel from camera right.

India, Punjab, Amritsar, Golden Temple, Harmandir shrine, two Sikh men sittingIndia, Punjab, Amritsar, Golden Temple, Harmandir shrine, Sikh man

The guard soon walked away and when a white-bearded Sikh man strolled by, I asked if he could pose for me. Now I had a bit more time to work with the light but I didn’t want to get run off by the guards so I had to keep things simple and quick. This is a very spiritual place, not a photo studio. Reverence and respect seemed important.

I attached a Harbor Digital 1/8-inch grid to the flash unit for a tighter circle of light and instructed my assistant to aim it toward the man’s face but to hold the unit from his waist so it wouldn’t appear that we were doing a professional lighting setup just in case the guards glanced our way.

In these two images the fill flash works better since the men’s clothing doesn’t have such a wide range of exposure values. The gridded flash adds a more dramatic light falloff  than in the example of the two sitting men where the bare flash was moved further to the right for a more even wash of light.

Later that day at twilight the lights were turned on and I shot this image below when the building exposure matched the waning blue light in the sky. I almost never shoot at night since the deep cobalt blue always looks better than a black sky. A bit of ambient light also keeps the image from getting too contrasty. The window of opportunity to capture the perfect light balance at twilight only lasts a minute or two. Typically I shoot this kind of image with a tripod but no pods were allowed at the Golden Temple.

India, Punjab, Amritsar, Golden Temple, Harmandir shrine, twilight view with lake reflection

On my Canon 5D Mark II I was using a Canon EF 24-135mm f/4 IS L lens with built-in image stabilization, I set the camera at Auto ISO and f/8 using Aperture Priority mode. The camera automatically chose ISO 3200 at 1/15th second exposure time. The lens was set at 50mm. Normally this would mean one should use a shutter speed of no less than 1/50th second to avoid camera shake but the image stabilization feature held the image sharp even at 1/15th second.

Naturally an image exposed using ISO 3200 will result in too much digital noise but taking advantage of the full range of settings with Adobe Camera RAW in Lightroom I was able to dial in settings that resulted in a tack sharp, grainless image. For those who might want to know the nitty gritty details for these settings, here are the values I used for the shadow areas in the image:

Sharpening:

Amount = 35
Radius = .7
Detail = 100
Masking = 100

Noise Reduction:

Luminance = 70
Detail = 0
Contrast = 0
Color = 100
Detail = 0

The high luminance setting eliminates the noise in the shadows but at the expense of sharpness. However, the other eight settings enable one to finesse the final result to regain the effect of sharpness.

Actually for even better results I imported three copies of the image from Lightroom into Photoshop as separate layers, each with a different layer mask–one that revealed only highlights with the luminance set at 30 and the sharpness set to 15, one with a layer mask that revealed only the mid-tones with the luminance value set to 50 and the sharpness set to 25, and finally one copy with a layer mask that only revealed the shadows with the luminance set to a higher value of 70 and the sharpness set at 35.

(This automated layer mask process is incorporated into my GASP Photoshop 3-D Workflow Action.)

The idea is that noise is virtually not visible in the highlights so they don’t need much luminance softening. A bit more noise is seen in the mid-tones but the most is visible in the shadows where I’ve applied the highest luminance noise control. Every image will require different amounts of correction so results must be tailored accordingly and viewed at 100% magnification. The key point is to use as little luminance noise control as possible so as not to de-sharpen the image and that’s why I used layer masks to apply a lesser amount of luminance noise control to the highlights and mid-tones than is needed in the shadows.

And this is how I snagged an extremely publishable image handheld at twilight using a sharp f/8 lens setting in a locale where tripods weren’t allowed.

::

Click the photos below for info about some of the gear I used for images in this blog post.

And if you want to see an awesome array of all the photo equipment I travel with, click here.

Glen Allison

Discover the unique Photoshop strategies I use in my 3-D Workflow Tutorial.

Add me to your Google+ Circles.

Stumble this blog page.

Check out these powerful software plugins I often use to enhance my images.

GASP Photoshop ActionsNik Color Efex ProKubota Image ToolsiCorrect SoftwareJHP Photoshop Actions Photoshop Actions
Tweet Adder Photoshelter
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn StumbleUpon Bookmark and Share
Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared.

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Polka Dot Babe

Polka Dot Babe

Polka Dot Heaven. My makeup artist, Hilde Marie Johansen, drew inspiration in her styling of this image from Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama, the queen extraordinaire of polka dot glory. Click on Kusama’s link and be utterly amazed. Prolific doesn’t even come close to describing this 83-year-old woman’s life work. Wikipedia elaborates on the roots of… Read more…

Bejeweled

Stroborati-01453

Be black. Be jeweled. This is Russian model, Tanya, studded with faux diamonds glued to her skin that perfectly matched her outfit designed by the makeup artist/stylist/fashion designer, Hilde Marie Johansen, who is sitting next to me in the setup shot below. Tanya is tall and my ceiling was low. So she had to sit in… Read more…

Flaming Red

Stroborati-01119

Lady in Blue A marvelous, dance-filled evening. This is another of my Stroborati BODYART series styled by Hilde Marie Johansen, who applied blue paint to transform our model, Nardia. For the background I used a 2-meter diameter bamboo picnic table umbrella that I bought at Bangkok’s famous weekend Chatuchak Market. I sawed off the stem… Read more…

Don't Be Blue

Stroborati-00781

The Launch of Stroborati BODY ART I’m starting a new series of Stroborati body-painted images and will be incorporating some very artistic designs on the models in my upcoming images that will be styled by Hilde Marie Johansen, an extremely talented makeup artist/stylist/fashion designer in Bangkok. Hilde hand crafted this headpiece for model, Mara Bee,… Read more…

Power

Male model, Bangkok, Thailand

This is Steven Dasz. A South American actor visiting Bangkok in between Shanghai and Singapore movie gigs. At his feet washed the overflowing waters of the mighty Chao Phraya River, which courses through this thunderous city, and whose waves sometimes splash above embankments during the rainy season. I asked Steven to remove his shirt and to… Read more…

Akha Innocence

Akha Innocence

New Chiaroscuro Fine Art Photo Series Akha hill tribe women in northern Laos dress in faded shades of black cloth. Color exists only in their decorative accouterments; old coins add a bit of glinting highlight to their costumes. “Akha Innocence” The Akha have developed interesting cultural mores. At age sixteen Akha lads are encouraged by… Read more…

Walk on the Wild Side

"Splatter Blue"

Dateline Bangkok: (Day 705 with 3300 to go) Wherever I travel I try to employ color, light and shadow within my tight photographic compositions to draw a rather serene order from the often chaotic visual clutter of the world. :: “It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.” – Henry David… Read more…

Hearing Beyond Hearing

Tuk-Tuk Gone Wild

Dateline Bangkok: (Day 660 with 3345 to go) I’d like to break away from my usual travel blog pursuits and share a poignant lesson. A few weeks ago I met a young Thai guy named Theerawat. He’s twenty years old. I’ve never met anyone with such incredible perception. And now I often try to “remove”… Read more…

Red Dzao Smile

Vietnam, Lao Cai Province, Sapa, Thanh Kim Village, Red Dzao hill tribe

The Red Dzao hill tribe is one of the few in which the women don’t chew beetle nut, which stains ones mouth and lips red. They get their name from the scarlet color of their headdress and not from the color of their teeth. Maybe that’s why Red Dzao ladies of North Vietnam smile more than other… Read more…

Wow! Red Dzao!

Vietnam, Sapa, Ta Phin Village, Red Dzao hill tribe woman wearing traditional dress

Red has long been associated with royalty. The Red Dzao hill tribe women of North Vietnam shave their foreheads and eyebrows. The visual experience (for a naive Western eye) can be a bit disconcerting at first glance. For these women, their crowning glory is a folded red blanket atop their heads. They are a happy people. Manipulating… Read more…

Tubular City

Vietnam-00713

Tubular City The old town of Hanoi can provide visual delight around every corner. I strolled down one narrow street filled with metalwork shops. Most often I walked along the street’s edge since every square inch of the sidewalk was either serving as a parking lot for motorbikes or a horizontal space for workers who… Read more…

Elephantasy

India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, Painted Elephant Festival

Elephantasy For the second time I photographed the awesome painted elephants of Jaipur in the western state of Rajasthan, India. These magnificent beasts possess incredible power yet they are a patient species. Perhaps we humans have much to learn. I could have been crushed in an instant at the whim of this marvelous animal. He… Read more…

More Naga Headhunter Tribal Warriors

India-06452

In olden days these Naga warriors in the far north-eastern reaches of India collected heads from fallen opponents and they proudly displayed their trophies above the entrance doors of their bamboo huts. I’m extremely grateful I wasn’t part of their collection. I could have asked these guys to smile . . . but that would have… Read more…

Jaipur Painted Elephant Festival

India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, Painted Elephant Festival

Amazing India. Happy elephants proudly strutted their stuff all decked out in their finest attire. Their bodies were covered in vibrant designs. This friendly fellow had his face painted with a tiger on his trunk. Notice how the elephant’s eye lines up with that of the tiger on his nose. The two Rajasthani guys mounted… Read more…

Naga Tribal Warrior

India-06607

It wasn’t so long ago that tribal warriors in the far north-eastern Indian state of Nagaland practiced head hunting as a favorite pastime. Fortunately for me, this fierce-looking gentleman gave up such macabre endeavors long ago. The remote Tuensang area of Nagaland was a grueling 12-hour journey that refreshed my memory of many other “bus-rides-from-hell,”… Read more…

Drip Tease

India, Rajasthan, Bikaner, paint-dripped wall

Drippy Teaser On a recent stroll through the old town in Bikaner, India, I happened upon an old metal door splattered with numerous paint drips. I zeroed in for a close-up view. My guess is that the person who painted the wall up above with white paint had  no idea he was creating a thrilling… Read more…

Dressy Camel Neckwear

India, Rajasthan, Jaislamer, Desert Festival, camel decoration

Camel Fashionista The Jaisalmer Desert Festival is a draw for dressed-up camels and hordes of not-so-dressy tourists. The camels seemed to care less either way. By nature they can be an arrogant lot. Or maybe that’s just the way they like to portray themselves. I like camels. . Laminated Print . Mounted Print . Canvas… Read more…

Axially Aligned

Street market display of hand-wrought axe handles found at the Nagaur Cattle Fair in Nagaur, Pushkar, India.

Magic Axe Street markets in India offer unique surprises. I found this collection of hand-wrought axe blades on display at the Nagaur Cattle Fair in central Rajasthan. Such events attract craftsmen from nearby desert tribal villages who set up makeshift booths along the road to sell their wares to the hordes of cattle merchants in… Read more…

Metallic Crisscross

Thailand, Bangkok, black paint graffiti on a silver metal roll-up door

Metallica Art can be found in chaos. Bangkok has a bit of graffiti but unlike most major cities in the world, here this alternative art form is mostly isolated to old buildings in the process of being demolished, which sometimes takes months. In the interim the graffiti artists have added a nice splash of design… Read more…

Akha Hill Tribes and Bamboo Love Shacks

Laos, Phongsali Province, Papuon Mai village, Akha hill tribe, lady with traditional headdress

Dateline Northern Laos: (Day 505 with 3500 to go) Tonal isolation. Akha hill tribe women in northern Laos dress in faded shades of black cloth. Color exists only in their decorative accouterments. Old coins add a bit of glinting highlight to their costumes. While I shot these images in color, I elected to remove the… Read more…

Upward Bound

India, Rajasthan, Udaipur, building facade detail with shuttered windows

Upward Dreams I walk through narrow streets. Sometimes I look up. I love shadow. I love highlight. Sometimes I lapse into a world enveloped by my dreams . . . then I realize it’s not a dream. (From Udaipur. A rather magical old town in the south of Rajasthan, India.) . Laminated Print . Mounted… Read more…

Hill Tribe Sardine Bus

Lao P.D.R., Laos, Luang Nam Tha Province, Ban Nam Mat Mai village, Akha hill tribe lady

To reach this Akha hill tribe village from my base in the small Laotian town of Luang Nam Tha, I first had to take a 2-hour local minibus equipped with four rows of twelve seats into which were crammed twenty-one people. Luckily there were no chickens or pigs or fresh fish aromas on this trip. Much… Read more…

Akha Days, Akha Nights

Laos, Phongsali Province, Papoun Mai village, Akha hill tribe, lady wearing traditional headdress holding a baby

Our trek to the top of the mountain had its rewards. It would be my first night to sleep in an Akha village. As with many hill tribes in Laos, UNICEF had helped these villagers install a water pipe from the nearest small river, which provided my trekking team with what turned out to be… Read more…

Akha Hill Tribe Coinage

Laos, Phongsali Province, Papuon Mai village, Akha hill tribe, lady with traditional headdress

Got Small Change? The Akha Hill Tribe women of northern Laos adorn themselves with old coins. Read about the unique Akha people in my travel blog post, “Akha Hill Tribes & Bamboo Love Shacks.” . Laminated Print . Mounted Print . Canvas Print . Matted Print . Framed Print . . Photo Print . Greeting… Read more…

Akha Hill Tribe Women

Lao P.D.R., Laos, Phongsali Province, Huay Yueng village, Akha hill tribe women wearing traditional headdress and jewelry

Most people travel to the northern Laos hill tribe country via a 15- to 20-hour local bus ride from Luang Prabang, the nearest major town toward the south. A fifteen-dollar bus ticket sure beats going by private chartered car that would set you back about US$230 one-way. Cramped in a tiny bus seat with camera… Read more…

Gypsy Eyes

gypsyeyes

Webster somewhat diplomatically defines the word “gypsy” as: “A member of a traveling people with dark skin and hair who speak Romany and traditionally live by seasonal work, itinerant trade and fortune-telling. Gypsies are now found mostly in Europe, parts of North Africa and North America, but are believed to have originated in the Indian… Read more…

Bundi Ring Flash

bundiringflash

This year the Bundi Ustav Festival in India happened just a few days after the Pushkar Camel Fair about five hours away. Festivities began with the traditional Kalash Yatra parade where sari-clad ladies marched through the narrow streets of Bundi carrying pots on their heads. The action was fast and the streets were jam-packed with… Read more…

Camel Fair Flair

India, Rajasthan, Pushkar, decorated and painted camel

Artistic Camel Twenty thousand camels come to Pushkar, India, during the full moon of November each year. Often there’s much competition amongst camel herders when it comes to decorating their camels for the festival. This one had his fur shaved to form this pattern and to serve as a background for a painted design. …. Read more…

Rajasthani Gypsy Revisit

India, Rajasthan, Pushkar, gypsy girl

Once again I’m featuring Rekah, the gypsy young lady I met in Pushkar, India. Like all Indian towns, Pushkar has a wealth of great old doors that provide instant backdrops for posing subjects. Since this location provided a more controlled environment away from the crowds, I used a 24×24 inch softbox (an unnamed brand I… Read more…

Pushkar Gypsy Girl

India-05612

There’s a gypsy camp just outside the town limits of Pushkar, India. During the camel festival all the  gypsy girls come to town in search of photographer’s and the nice tips they are more than willing to pay for pictures. This is Rekah, who is twenty years old. I had pre-scouted the area for some… Read more…